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• Textile Chemistry
• Textile Biotechnology
• Natural fibres (bast fibres and wool)
• Dyeing and finishing
• Antimicrobial textile testing

Textile Engineering and Materials (TEAM) Research Group

Research and Innovation Institute - Art, Design and Performance (Full Member)

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Selected Publications:

• Prajapati C, Smith E, Kane F, Shen J. (2023) New approaches for textile coloration and surface pattern using enzyme-based biotechnology, Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice (RFTD) 11 (3): 213-236
• Rissanen M, Schlapp-Hackl I, Sawada D, Raiskio S, Ojha K, Smith E, Sixta H. (2023) Chemical recycling of hemp waste textiles via the ionic liquid based dry-jet-wet spinning technology, Textile Research Journal, 93 (11-12): 2545-2557.
• Netithammakorn N, Smith E, Lerpiniere C, Shen J (2021) Peroxidase-catalysed coloration of wool fabrics, Coloration Technology, 137 (2): 93-107.
• Harwood R, Smith E (2020), ‘Testing of natural textile fibres’ in Handbook of Natural Fibres Volume 1: Types, Properties and Factors Affecting Breeding and Cultivation, 2nd Edition (Edited by R M Kozlowski and M Mackiewicz-Talarczyk), Elsevier Ltd, England. pp 535-576.
• Prajapati C, Smith E, Kane F, Shen J (2019) Selective enzymatic modification of wool/polyester blended fabrics for surface patterning, Journal of Cleaner Production, 211: 909-921.
• Prajapati C, Smith E, Kane F, Shen J (2018),Laccase-catalysed coloration of wool and nylon, Coloration Technology, 2018, 134, 423-439.
• Yuan M, Wang Q, Shen J, Smith E, Bai R, Fan X. (2018), Enzymatic coloration and finishing of wool with laccase and polyethylenimine, Textile Research Journal, 88 (16) 1834-1846.
• Shen J, Smith E, Chizyuka M, Prajapati C (2017), Development of durable shrink-resist coating of wool with sol-gel polymer processing, Fibers and Polymers, 18(9), 1769-1779.
• Shen J, Smith E (2015), 'Enzymatic treatments for sustainable textile processing' in the book, Sustainable apparel: production, processing and recycling (Edited by R Blackburn), Woodhead Publishing Ltd, England. pp 119-134

• • Smith E, Shen J. (2012) Enzymatic treatment of wool pre-treated with cetyltrimethylammonium bromide to achieve machine washability. Biocatalysis and Biotransformation, 30 (1), pp. 38-47
  • Smith E, Shen J. (2011) Surface modification of wool with protease extracted polypeptides. Journal of Biotechnology 156: 134-140
  • Smith E, Farrand B, Shen J.  (2010), The removal of lipid from the surface of wool to promote the subsequent enzymatic process with modified protease for wool shrink resistance. Biocatalysis and Biotransformation 28: 329-338
  • Smith E, Schroeder M, Guebitz G, Shen J.  (2010), Covalent bonding of protease to different sized enteric polymers and their potential use in wool processing. Enzyme and Microbial Technology 47:105-111
  • Smith E, Williams JT, Walsh SE, Painter P. (2010), Comparison of antimicrobial textile treatments, In: Medical and Healthcare Textiles: Proceedings of the Fourth International Conference on Healthcare and Medical Textiles. editors. Kennedy JF, Anand SC, Miraftab M, Rajendran S. Woodhead Textile Series  No. 75. ISBN 1845692241
  • Smith E, Zhang Q, Shen J, Schroeder M, Silva C. (2008) Modification of Esperase by covalent bonding to Eudragit polymers L 100 and S 100 for wool fibre surface treatment. Biocatalysis and Biotransformation, 26 (5), 391-398. 

Recent research has been in areas including chemical modification of enzymes to improve the performance of wool fibre/ fabric; chemical processing of bast fibre (flax and hemp); functional finishing of fabric using sol-gel and the efficacy of antimicrobial textile testing methodology.

• Textile coloration
• Properties, structure, identification and analysis of textile fibres and yarns
• Textile sustainability

• PhD in Colour and Polymer Chemistry (University of Leeds)
• MSc in Conservation Science ( »ÆÉ«²Ö¿â, Leicester)
• BSc (Hons) in Chemistry (University of East Anglia, Norwich)

Currently teaches and supervises in the following modules:

FBUY 1103/1104:  Design & Development/ Fashion Business : Textile Materials: Coloration and Fibres & Yarns

FTEX 1002: Explore Materials Construction: Coloration and Fibres & Yarns

FBUY3102: Research Project

SITT 5001: Textile Technology and Sustainability

SITT 5003: Product Performance

SITT 5004/5005: MSc Major Project

Publications Award Committee (PAC) member of the Society of Dyers & Colourists (SDC) since 2022

Royal Society of Chemistry – Associate Member (AMRSC)

 

Presenter (Oral):

Smith E., Flax and Linseed Research, BBSRC funded Industry-Academic workshop on “Improving the sustainability of UK agriculture with flax/linseed”, 16th-17th January 2023, Durham,UK

Smith E, Shen J. Surface treatment of wool to achieve hydrophilic fibre and the effect on subsequent dyeing and protease treatment, International Conference on Eco-Dyeing/ Finishing and Green Chemistry, 8th -12th June, 2011, Hangzhou, China. 

Smith E, Shen J. Treatment of wool with enzyme extracted wool polypeptide to achieve shrink resistance, 7th International Conference on Polymer and Textile Biotechnology, 2nd – 4th March, 2011, Milan, Italy.

Smith E, Williams JT, Walsh SE, Painter, P. Comparison of antimicrobial textile treatments,  4th International Conference and Exhibition on Healthcare and Medical Textiles (MEDTEX’07),16th – 18th July 2007,  Bolton, UK.

Smith, E., Comparison of antimicrobial textile test methods, International Biodeterioration Research Group (IBRG) textiles section meeting, 27th October 2006, Copenhagen, Denmark.

Poster presentations:

Smith E, Zhang Q, Farrand B, Kokol V, Shen J. The development of a bio-scouring process for raw wool using protease, International Conference on Eco-Dyeing/ Finishing and Green Chemistry, June 8-12, 2011, Hangzhou, China.

Consultancies undertaken:

Mutinta Chizyuka (PhD awarded in 2016), “Development of sol-gel technology for textile surface coating to achieve self-cleaning and antibacterial properties” (2^nd Supervisor)

Chetna Prajapati (PhD awarded in 2017), “Biotechnology for textile design: 3D colour and surface patterning” (2^nd Supervisor)

Guoli Li (PhD awarded in 2019), "The effectiveness of orthotics in reducing the hallux valgus angle for patients with mild and moderate hallux valgus", (2^nd Supervisor)

Nalinee Netithammakorn (PhD awarded in 2021), "Bioprocessing of wool and flax textile materials", (2^nd Supervisor)

James Stewart (PhD candidate) “Upcycling of Post-Consumer Food Packaging Materials”, (2^nd Supervisor)

Eden Coe-Jenkins (PhD candidate) “Enzyme-mediated breakdown of Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET)” (2^nd supervisor)

Megan Melhuish (PhD candidate) “Hygiene Control for reuseable sanitary products, exploring product safety and development management” (2^nd supervisor)

Worku Molla (PhD candidate) "Recycling and reuse of waste wool" (2^nd Supervisor)

Research & Innovation Grant Funded Projects:

Funder: BBSRC Follow-on Fund

Project: Scaling-up bioprocesses for fibre separation of mixed waste for circularity

Role: Project co-lead

Dates: February 2026 to January 2028

 

Funder: Innovate UK Accelerated Knowledge Transfer 3 (AKT3)

Project: »ÆÉ«²Ö¿â and Stephen Walters & Sons Limited

Role: Project lead

Dates: October 2024 to February 2025

 

Funder: Innovate UK Business Connect Global Innovation Network: Global Alliance Africa Lead Customer Programme

Project: Preserving Nigeria’s Cultural Textiles Heritage Through Sustainable Adire Technology

Role: UK lead

Dates: October 2024 to March 2025

 

Funder: East Midlands Development Agency (EMDA) and European Regional Development Fund (ERDF) Innovation Fellowship

Project:  Optimisation of Enzyme Processing of Wool – Follow up (HIRF 447F)

Role: Principal Investigator

Dates: March 2010 to August 2010

 

Funder: East Midlands Development Agency (EMDA) Innovation Fellowship

Project: Optimisation of Enzyme Processing of Wool (HIRF 385)

Role: Principal Investigator

Dates: March 2009 to August 2009

 

Commercially Funded Projects:

Funder: Bast Fibre Technologies Inc (BFTI)

Project: Process optimisation, fibre evaluation and feedstock augmentation of bast fibre (hemp & flax) processing for non-woven and textile applications

Role: Principal Investigator

Dates: ongoing since September 2020

 

Funder: NuMax Fibre Technology

Project: Fibre Optimisation & Analysis

Role: Principal Investigator

Dates: November 2011 to September 2015

 

Funder: CRAiLAR Technologies Inc

Project: Flax Process Optimisation (Project Tiger)   

Role: Principal Investigator

Dates: September 2010 to July 2015

 

 

• • Lee J.A., Harwood R.J., Smith E.J., Wright A.E., (2020) Bleaching and shive reduction process for non-wood fiber, US Patent Application No. 16/924,296
  • Lee J.A., Harwood R.J., Smith E.J. (2015) Bleaching and shive reduction process for non-wood fiber, US Patent Application Publication No. US2015/0337486 A1
  • Shen J, Smith E.J. (2010) Treatment of wool with enzyme extracted wool polypeptide. GB Patent Application 1015962.2 (2010)

 

Session Chair: I chaired an Oral Presentation Session, Session A-4 on Functional Textiles (10th June 2011) at the International Conference on Eco-Dyeing/ Finishing and Green Chemistry, June 8-12, 2011, Hangzhou, China.

Peer Review: I have refereed research papers for the following journals: